Most things that get damaged in storage were packed wrong, not stored wrong. A poorly packed box shifts in transit, lets moisture in, or puts pressure on fragile items that then crack or crush. Pack it right and almost anything will survive months in a box without a scratch.
This guide covers the full process — what to use, how to layer, what to avoid, and a few things specific to shipping a box rather than just stacking it in a garage.
1. Choose the right size box
The most common packing mistake is using a box that's too big. A large half-empty box is more dangerous than a small full one — contents shift during transit and collide with each other. Use a box that's snug for what you're storing.
- Heavy items (books, tools, dishes) go in small boxes. A big box full of books will weigh 60+ lbs and the bottom will give out.
- Light, bulky items (pillows, stuffed animals, light clothing) can go in large boxes.
- If the box bows or strains when you close it, you've overpacked. If it feels hollow and things shift when you shake it, you're underpacked.
2. Line the box before you pack
For anything you care about, line the bottom and sides of the box with a layer of packing paper or bubble wrap before putting anything in. This gives you a cushion on all sides and provides a small barrier against moisture wicking up from the bottom.
For extra-valuable or moisture-sensitive items, a trash bag liner inside the box provides real waterproofing. Slide the bag in, fill the box, then fold the top over before closing.
3. Pack heaviest items on the bottom
Always. Heavy items on top crush lighter ones, compress padding, and shift the box's center of gravity so it tips during handling. The packing order from bottom to top:
- Heavy and dense items: books, tools, canned goods, small appliances
- Medium-weight items: folded clothing, linens, shoes (packed in pairs)
- Light, fragile, or oddly shaped items: framed photos, lampshades, stuffed animals
4. Wrap fragile items individually
Each fragile item needs its own wrapping — don't assume the proximity of other items provides protection. A piece of bubble wrap between two wine glasses doesn't help if they're touching at the rim.
- Dishes: wrap each plate individually in packing paper, then stack vertically (on edge, not flat). Stacked flat, the weight of the pile cracks the bottom ones.
- Glasses and mugs: stuff the inside with paper first, then wrap the outside. The interior cushioning absorbs impact from the inside out.
- Framed items: wrap in bubble wrap and pack vertically, never flat at the bottom of a stack.
- Electronics: original boxes are best. If you don't have them, wrap in anti-static bubble wrap (standard bubble wrap can cause static discharge on circuit boards).
5. Fill every gap
Empty space is the enemy. Any gap lets items shift, and shifting is what causes breakage. Use packing paper, bubble wrap, foam peanuts, or even clean towels and clothing to fill voids completely. Shake the closed box — if you hear or feel anything moving, open it and add more padding.
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When you store with WebSafeDepositBox, we send you a prepaid FedEx or USPS label and take care of the transit from there. Pack it using these guidelines, drop it off at any carrier location, and we handle the rest. Plans start at $14.99/mo.
See How It Works →6. Protect against moisture
Moisture is the slow killer in storage — it doesn't break things immediately, it grows mold and mildew over weeks or months. A few precautions go a long way:
- Never store damp items. Everything goes in clean and completely dry — clothes, towels, shoes, anything fabric.
- Silica gel packets absorb residual moisture inside a sealed box. Toss two or three in before sealing. You can buy packs cheaply online or save them from shoe boxes and electronics packaging.
- Don't store food. Even sealed food can attract pests and leave odors that transfer to everything else in the box.
- Avoid storing leather directly against cardboard for long periods — cardboard can leach acids into leather. Wrap leather in cloth or acid-free tissue first.
7. Seal and label clearly
Close all flaps and run packing tape along every seam — top, bottom, and both side seams. One strip down the center isn't enough; the box needs to hold its shape under weight and handling. Use at least three strips of tape on the bottom (center + both edges) since that's where the load goes.
Label every box on two sides, not just the top. If boxes get stacked, you can't see the top. Write the contents in broad strokes ("winter clothing," "kitchen — fragile") and add a FRAGILE marking in a different color if anything breakable is inside.
8. What not to pack
Even in professional storage, some things shouldn't go in a box:
- Perishables or food — even shelf-stable food attracts pests over time
- Hazardous materials — paint, solvents, propane, batteries in unknown condition
- Original documents (passport, birth certificate) — store copies, keep originals at home
- Anything living — plants, animals
- Items that are already wet or damp — dry them completely first
Quick packing checklist
- ✓ Right-size box — snug but not straining
- ✓ Bottom and sides lined with packing paper or bubble wrap
- ✓ Heaviest items on the bottom, lightest on top
- ✓ Every fragile item wrapped individually
- ✓ All gaps filled — shake test passes
- ✓ Silica gel packet(s) inside for moisture
- ✓ Three strips of tape on the bottom seam, all seams sealed
- ✓ Labeled on two sides, FRAGILE marked if needed
That's it. Follow this list and your things will come back out exactly the way they went in — whether that's next season or a few years from now.